The only reason we were going to the Arc was because Amanda (my daughter for those who don't know) was invited by a friend who was going with a trainer. However, he called on Saturday to say he wasn’t going because the trainer decided late on not to go. But Amanda and I were already geared up to go so we went on our own and what an enjoyable day it was. It was, in fact, our first visit to any French racecourse. QM has done a proper review of the racing so this is simply a personal perspective on a day at Longchamp. Maybe for those who go every year it’s all expected; but for us it was a memorable experience. And when I compare that to a recent memorable experience at Royal Ascot I have to say British Racing is a disgrace as far as accommodating the public is concerned. Everything seemed geared to ensuring the public had a great day. Getting there. The plan was to aboard the Cherbourg to Paris Gare Saint Lazare train at Carentan, just 15 or so minutes from home. However, typically, we didn’t quite make that one so we caught the next one (9.10) which involved a change and 30 min wait at Caen. It meant we would miss the first race but that was of no concern to us. From Paris Gare Saint Lazare we took the Metro (Line 9) to Michel-Ange Auteuil and then onto Line 10 for 1 stop to Porte d’Auteuil. Right outside the station was the Auteuil racecourse. And over the road was a fleet of buses to take us to the course (no charge). All the way to the course police were stopping traffic to let the free buses straight through any traffic lights and roundabouts. Once off the coach and a leisurely stroll through a small park like area with an area to sit and have something to eat and drink before entering the course. We bought our admission tickets at the entrance. It cost me 4 euros, being a senior, and Amanda 4 euros, being an FFE member (although didn’t have to prove either – which was a bit disappointing in my case). Having got our tickets we saw a massive queue to go in, but wait a minute, there’s a red carpet there leading through some gates attended by some very smart men and ladies and no queuing. That will do us, So we went down the red carpet and we were in. What an atmosphere, Straight to the paddock to look at the horses parading then to the PMU to place our bets. A friend gave us 100euros to put on Masked Marvel. We had 10 euros on each of Workforce and So You Think. For the first race we were about to watch, Amanda asked what would win to which I replied, without hesitation “Elusive Kate”. So on went our 10 euros (no idea of the price but I assumed it would be favourite). As we walked through the impressive stand there was the course (believe it not) but what a sight, It looked absolutely perfect; it all just looked so clean and lush. And off we went to the winning post to watch Kate sail home. Then one by one all the non winners rode back past the stands and then along came Kate with her winning rug, jockey waving. Fantastic. What a start. Enjoying the atmosphere and getting to find our way around we forgot about placing a bet for the next race. They are down at the starting gate. What’s going to win this asked Amanda. Without hesitation, I said “Dabirsim “ (again no idea of price but surely odds on). Didn’t get the bet on but just seen the return so no big deal. In fact for this race I didn’t realise that the winning post was not the Arc winning post and thought it had lost. Doh. It was all eyes on Goldikova for the next race so off to the paddock. No bet on this race as I was afraid of Dream Ahead and Worthadd over 7f and in any event Goldi was odds on (got the hang of it now). One horse in the race, Flash Dance, looked extremely poorly for a 5yo - our girl at home looks much better. Anyway Goldi lost. Now the moment we had been waiting for. Off to the paddock to see the Arc entries. We were amazed at how poorly Workforce looked. I have to admit to being disappointed with So You Think also. I was expecting a big impressive powerful looking animal, but he looked just like the rest. Basically there wasn’t one that made us go “Wow”. The weather has probably played havoc with the horses. Just as they are mentally preparing for the winter with their winter coats beginning to show they get blistering heat for days on end. However, the German mare looked pretty fit but I’d already dismissed this one (openly on this forum) and foolishly it did not enter my head to reconsider. We got our position for the race and, unfortunately, witnessed a demolition of our selections. It was an anti-climax – a ****ing German horse has won; bollocks. But that all changed. The jockey came past us against the rails waving and throwing kisses, he was ecstatic. We were so pleased for him that we found ourselves cheering and waving back. The result was not important; it was all about the atmosphere. Then the award ceremony. The Quatar stand was pulled out to the middle of the track and the band started playing. Then came 3 horse drawn carriages carrying all the connections of the winning horse (owners, family, trainer, jockey etc). This was a real ceremony, on the course in front of the stands for all to see.. It was all very impressive. You could go virtually anywhere, top of the stands, down to the winning post, to the parade ring all for just 8 euros for two. British racing was just put to shame. It was a blisteringly hot day but it was easy to find shade, Beer and coke were not expensive and ice cream was reasonable, After the races we sat down in a food area outside the course for a cold drink and some chips before ambling back to the waiting free buses. No waiting, no queuing. Just friendly faces ready to take us back to the metro. Back in Paris we went for a quick bite and drink before settling down on the train back to Carentan where wife (Anita) was waiting to pick us up. A young chap opposite was trying to get Amanda’s phone no. all the way to Caen (that was quite amusing). Luckily we didn’t end up in Cherbourg though because after Caen we had the entire carriage to ourselves and spread out across the seats and fell asleep. I woke up as the arrival at Carentan was being announced and had to wake Amanda. The panic; we couldn’t open the door to get out. Fortunately someone pointed out that we were trying to get out of the wrong door and directed us up the carriage where, after a few more attempts, we managed to get out before the train continued to Cherbourg. All in all a fantastic day out and Amanda is already committed to going again next year. Photos to follow.
Sounds like a wonderful day out mate. A well written piece too. I suppose it was wall to wall people, something I'm no longer a fan of. But on the flip side of the coin, a full throated crowd can sometimes do great things to you head.
There was certainly a large enthusiastic crowd Cyc but it din't seem over packed. I just followed Amanda. It was quite spacious. Maybe something to do with the fact there were no on course bookmakers. And there were so many booths to place bets at different locations it was no trouble putting on a bet or collecting, which reminds me. We didn't collect our winnings until after the Arabian world Cup race and I was staggered at the payout on Elusive Kate. I assumed she would be favourite but the French horse went off odds on. I have to give Timeform the credit for that one. She was top rated with a p and "will be suited by a mile". Looked nailed on to me. Also our all time favourite pet cat was called Katie. That clinched it. Should have put a packet on it. In all honesty, I think if I had picked a horse to back in every race I would have still ended up with just the 2 winners. Tangerine Trees almost tempted me but I don't think I would have risked any money on that one.
Ron, it is wonderful to see your view of the Arc day experience from the perspective of a Longchamp virgin! With the Nanny State subsidising everything thanks to the take from the PMU betting monopoly, just four Euros for concessions to get in does make British racing look very expensive. Four Euros will only buy you a racecard at Ascot on Champions’ Day. You weren’t the only person that was caught out by the two winning posts on the main course at Longchamp. If you got one of the free race programmes (for once they didn’t run out), next to the map showing the course for each race, it will say “2é Poteau” next to the races that finish at the second winning post. The seven furlong races always finish at the second post as did a couple of the longer distance races on the Saturday. Like several British courses, the sprint course is a separate straight quite a distance from the grandstand. In the modern era with the big video screens, punters can stay in the stands and watch without binoculars. Those of us with a camera who want to be on the winning line have to venture across the course with the official photographers, climb over a fence (because the gates are always locked) and run the gauntlet of the over-officious security people who are trying to keep the two-score other racegoers back from the running rail. Having spoken to a French racing journalist before racing began, I knew that Freddie Head’s Zantenda had a very big reputation going into the Prix Marcel Boussac, so with such a small field it was no surprise that she was odds-on. I didn’t touch the race myself but I’m glad you found that Elusive winner. Flash Dance was Goldikova’s pacemaker and I cannot recall the last time that Goldi was not odds-on with the PMU. She is very much the public’s horse in France and the welcome that greeted Dream Ahead’s victory was provided by the British component of the crowd. It was an extremely hot weekend for October and it was possible to stay out of the sun if you didn’t want to stand down by the running rail. The shadow from the grandstand doesn’t creep out to cover that area until after five o’clock so I got roasted (both days).
In an email to RFC I said (in the nicest possible way). Don't spend a fortune scratching the surface. If your house is structurally unsound and the roof is in danger of falling in you don't start paying someone to decorate and paint the window frames. You only have to look at the amount of funding racing gets in France compared to Britain to see where the problem lies. So there is a very blunt choice: (a) copy the French or (b) get the equivalent funding from the bookmakers and exchanges (including off shore tax havens). Bookmakers are trying all means to evade the levies. Time they were faced with an ultimatum.
One of my major disappointments of going to Cheltenham for the first time in March was that all the bars closed before the last race and everyone was discouraged from hanging around afterwards. It would have been great to stay on at the course for an hour or so discussing the ups and downs of the day, the great performances, the hard luck stories and maybe even hatching some plots for the next day. The on-course bars missing out on some massive takings there.
Ron, I used to travel from Edinburgh to Paris for the Arc weekend. Your post reminded me of the enjoyment my mother and I experienced during our first trip in 1988. There have been many changes to the races over the years but some things remain constant; the excellent entrance prices, the provision of food and drink at reasonable rates, the patient queues for the free shuttle buses, the temporary food and drink outlets just outside the track and the people you meet. The 'picture' you painted was especially poignant as my mother fell ill at the beginning of the year and has recently moved to a care home. She still remembers our many trips to Longchamp, Auteuil, Chantilly and Maisons Lafitte for major and other meetings. Strangely her favourite part of Longchamp in October was collecting conkers! My last visit to the Arc was in 2007 however my favourite trip was a year earlier when the Japanese arrived. Thanks.
€4!!! The money grasping frogs it was FF10 last time I went. Yes a great day out. Glad you enjoyed it.
Great description ron of your day out! reading it feels like I was there lol. Good pick on Tangerine (I know you didnt have a bet on) I wouldnt have picked him out if they ran the race 100 times I really want to go the arc, but cant see myself realistically going for a year or two. Cant wait for the photos! Oddy I know what you mean, I love chelteham my fav course (except good old local plumpton) but as soon as the last race is done they get you out and thats it! be nice to stck around as you say and just have chat about the day!
"It was an anti-climax â a ****ing German horse has won; bollocks." Tut-tut, Mr. Ron, what if some other nag had won like "a ****ing Irish horse, or "a ****ing English horse, or even stranger "a ****ing French horse"? Well, in mitigation, you did say ...."but everything changed"..... Glad you and your daughter enjoyed your day out at Longchamp!
What sort of carry on is that from our esteemed and much loved moderator, he goes for a day at the races and ends up drinking beer and taking drugs under a tree whilst the horses are sweating it out.
Ahhhh yes, I well remember my first hash encounter. A long time ago, when still in my teens, a mate and I bought a block, but didn't know how to use it, so we ate the stuff. Ten minutes later we were complaining that as we weren't feeling anything, we figured we'd been ripped off. Idiots. Half an hour later we were smashed.
Cyc: Before Ron chucks us out of his serious thread (well, me for sure) here's a true story. Around 1981 found myself in Kingston, Jamaica, which was our base for a single offshore Well on the Pedro Banks (about 45 min. chopper ride from Kingston). We rented a private jetty (normally used for timber) for the duration of the operation and the permanent stevedores were all Rastas. They were great guys and my small knowledge of cricket really helped me to get along with them. Of course, being Rastas, they all smoked ganja. I was on a rather enjoyable "high" for around three months just working alongside them and breathing the "ozone". Happy days!
